Big Daddy's Redux

Wednesday,  January 18, 2012

Periodically I like to update a review of past restaurants and report anything new--good or bad--and to see whether my opinion of the place has changed or not.  In the past, I have revisited Pestos, El Salto and others and now I figure it is time for Big Daddy's.

This past Wednesday, Big Daddy's was doing a fund raiser for Northview Elementary School so the place had alot of kids hanging around.  Fortunately, for my sake, the parents of Northview kids must be doing a pretty good job because they were pretty well behaved (the kids that is, not the parents!). 

As always, the place is clean, the food delivered quickly, and it was served hot and delicious.  The baby back ribs remain consistently delicious: smokey, meaty, and tender.  What has changed since I last wrote is the addition of a couple of things:  picnic tables inside the dining area, smoked turkey--yeah, baby--really good stuff, something called Texas Chips, and the replacement of the ubiquitous country music with the blues!  Kudos on all that stuff, especially the blues.  This music just ain't played everywhere, especially here in Valpo.  The turkey may be just about the best gobbler I have ever tasted!  I didn't try the Texas Chips, but understand the dish to be a sliced hot link sausage served over a bed of fries and smothered in beans and cheese sauce... 

I still have a couple of issues, the same ones from my previous post for the most part and no place is perfect.  But this is a BBQ joint remember, not a white table cloth kinda place.  Here, as in most really good BBQ havens around the south, you would be a-okay to just leave the utensils alone and tear into the ribs with your hands.  It just ain't good BBQ until you're wearing it up to your elbows and on your clothes!

Nevertheless, the people are really friendly and go out of their way to ensure you are treated well and that your dining experience is satisfactory.

It's Like a Train Wreck Out There!

Northwest Indiana is all abuzz with the news of the massive train wreck in Jackson township of a week ago today.  What further makes the story more interesting is the news that the emergency workers were infected by a bug picked up from the Jimmy John's on Lincolnway.  Read for yourself if you have been living in a cave for the last few days: http://www.nwitimes.com/news/local/porter/valparaiso/valparaiso-jimmy-john-s-blamed-for-illness-outbreak/article_57ea95fc-9b34-587c-b051-e42b5773d6cf.html#ixzz1jC6EZ0aq

When I checked in on urbanspoon this morning, I wanted to see if anyone had mentioned it under the review section.  After checking the Jimmy John's on Lincolnway and seeing nothing, I double checked the Jimmy John's on Calumet.  Sure enough, some brainiac had copied the article and placed it in a review of the WRONG restaurant.

Upon further reflection, several things are really disturbing about the whole scenario--not to diminish the anguish of those suffering from gastroenteritis--but not the least of these is the dingleberry who has wrongfully trashed the incorrect restaurant.  So consider this: as of this writing, no one has been able to say that the employees of the Jimmy John's (on Lincolnway, that is) are infected or are the source of the infection.  Yeah, I know a headline in the Post-Trib screams:

Sandwich shop worker infected food eaten by train responders


By Erin Guerra Post-Tribune correspondent January 11, 2012 2:55PM

but the article itself does not say, and as of yet probably cannot say that it originated from a Jimmy John's employee.  So;  to Erin Guerra of the Post-Tribune and the reviewer on urbanspoon, both of you are irresponsible.  Who is to say that a customer didn't carry this bug into the restaurant?  Or perhaps the mail carrier was carrying more than the mail? Maybe a rival sandwich shop owner planted a bug to discredit Jimmy John's?  Maybe an infected customer used the restroom at this location?  Maybe this is all an evil plot by Martians posing as simple restaurant workers to take down the United States through our sandwich shops and Subway is next on the list  The point is: who really knows at this time? 

That, in a nutshell, is the problem with a lack of accountability in reporting and a corresponding lack of responsibility in online reviewing.  The former is protected by a big corporation and the latter by anonymity.  I really wonder whether the significant loss in reputation and revenue to the restaurant could result in some equally significant liability for the newspaper and the careless urbanspoon reviewer? 

Of course, if it turns out that a Jimmy John's employee really was to blame... well then, nevermind.

These Are a Few of My Favorite Things

Stuck in the no man's land between Christmas and New Year's with office work moving at a glacial pace and energy levels reaching epic new lows, I find myself pondering where to go for dinner this coming weekend.  While I normally am the adventurous sort pertaining to culinary matters, there are times when the simple comforts of the familiar are too appealing to ignore.  These are the times when branching out into new territory seems a bit too much work or possibly bears too much risk.  These are the times that demand a tried and true experience.

Perhaps you know what I mean.  For example:  late one might craving a bit of frozen confectionery, you open the freezer and find yourself facing a container of Moose Tracks ice cream (my current favorite) or a new variety with the unfortunate name of Ukrainian Goulash.  Hmmm, which to choose, which to choose?  You already know you've experienced some wonderful times with a bowl of Moose Tracks and have reveled in the thick strands of fudge laced throughout the creamy goodness.  Conversely, the unknown and unfamiliar Ukrainian Goulash might actually harbor some al dente pasta or other non-ice cream like ingredients. 

Too risky.  I'll go with the Moose Tracks.

So.  Therein lies my dilemma.  I have mentally compiled a listing of my favorite places to dine, and they are, in no particular order:

             Gino's in Merrillville
             Tony's Place in Valpo
             Big Daddy's Genuine BBQ in Valpo
             My Very Own Kitchen in Valpo
             Teibel's in Schererville

An eclectic sampling, to say the least.  No common thread running through these selections.  And like the aforementioned ice cream quandary, I find myself asking:  which to choose, which to choose?

Gino's is a bit too pricey considering the current status of my budget.  Teibels is a bit too distant to brave the holiday traffic.  My very own kitchen involves a bit too much effort for my present state of slothfulness.  So that leaves Big Daddy's and Tony's... BBQ or pizza.

Ahh, two food groupings never destined to be considered healthy or figure friendly, both earning legions of devotees and both inspiring passionate debate concerning which is the best in their respective genres, and quite simply:  two of the best places to eat in Valpo.

Eureka!  I have it.  One place for lunch and the other for dinner.  I must be a genius.

El Salto Redux

Visited:  December 3, 2011

I admit I was somewhat reluctant to visit El Salto after my last meal at this venerable Valpo establishment.  My previous experience resulted in a poor review on Urbanspoon and when the suggestion for lunch here was made, I kind of rolled my eyes and went along... but sometimes you've got to go along just to get along!

Anyway, this visit proved that the Hoosier Epicure can change his mind.  I ordered the Sunday lunch burrito special; one beef, one chicken and they were very tasty.  The meat had been grilled until smokey and tender, then stuffed into soft flour tortillas.  Two thumbs up!  The chips, beans, and rice were all the same, frankly the same you seem to get at any Mexican joint.  But the burritos were definitely good and a vast improvement over previous dishes.  Service was quick, efficient, and unobtrusive.  The tall walls of the booths create somewhat of an intimate atmosphere and allow for private conversation, if that's your thing.

The official name is El Salto Authentic Mexican Restaurant.  So is it authentic?  Doubtful.  It it good?  Yeah, not bad.  I will go again without hesitation.

So there.  I have proven I have an open mind... sort of. 

Value:     7 out of 10  Not bad, deceptively large amount of food.
Cleanliness:  8 out of 10  Did not leave our booth, but everything looked good.
Food Taste:  7 out of 10  This is just for the burritos... the other stuff: ehh!
Service:  9 out of 10  They are there when you need them, speedy quick.
Ambiance:  7 out of 10  More taste (and decorating budget) than El Charro

El Salto
3530 Calumet Ave

Valparaiso, IN 46383

(219) 462-0100

Zaza Ristorante Italiano

Visited: November 12, 2011

With spouse and two friends in tow, we visited Za Za for the first time for dinner on Saturday night.  Our mutual first impression was to remark on how tiny the dining room appeared.  Judging from the depth of the building, we were all surprised at its compactness.  That issue notwithstanding, it was decorated tastefully in an effort to evoke an old world feel.

We were seated promptly because our arrival was relatively early in the evening and our server hustled a basket of warm, sliced bread to our table along with some flavored oil for dipping.  Two salads and two bowls of pasta fagioli followed.  The salads were typical in appearance but I had opted for the soup with high expectations.  We were not impressed with the soup.  It had been served lukewarm and was not consistent in taste with other pasta fagioli I have sampled.  It could be that this is in fact the authentic version and I am simply ignorant since I have never been to Italy.  Who knows?

Two of our entrees arrived, piping hot and steaming, but the other two were delivered almost six or seven minutes afterward.  It was awkward and no comment, apology, or explanation were offered.

Finally able to dig in, I will say that the chicken was very good.  Served on an al dente bed of linguine and smothered in a chunky, tomatoey (if that's a real word) sauce, the dish was rather enjoyable.  Of the four entrees, two were rated quite good while the other two were merely satisfactory. 

When dessert was offered, we were tempted beyond our ability to withstand and caved.  We shared a chocolate mousse while our friends opted for a "ball" of gelato covered in chocolate.  Both of these desserts--while somewhat pricey--were very good.

The inevitable comparison between Pestos and Za Za naturally arises:  both are Italian restaurants located within a few hundred yards of each other.  Although I am not any kind of an authority on Italian food, I get the impression that Za Za tries to project the image of being more "authentic" while Pestos has learned what makes diners in NWI tick.  For me, the overall experience at Pestos is better (the automatic gratuity fiasco incident momentarily set aside), and I think my dining partners would agree.

So in summary I would have to say I experienced a mixed bag of results:  some really good food juxtaposed against some rather average food.  Some really good service right beside some major gaps.  Would I return?  Our friends thought not... for me, the verdict is still out.

But I fully understand that with some places a single visit cannot alone be an accurate representation.  So we'll just see.

Value:  6 out of 10 (just a bit on the pricey side for what was delivered)
Ambiance:  7 out of 10 (Sinatra singing "Bad, Bad Leroy Brown" on the sound system...)
Food Taste:  6 out of 10 (the entree and dessert alone would have been higher, however)
Cleanliness:  7 out of 10 (picky, picky, I admit it!)
Service:  5 out of 10 (the large gap in entree delivery is problematic)

Zaza Ristorante Italiano
3534 Calumet Ave
Valparaiso, IN 46383
(219) 465-6800

JD Crepe Company Update

Guess what?  After spending 30 minutes or so writing an urbanspoon review of JD Crepe Company where I described the blatant lack of handwashing and bare hand-to-food contact, they (urbanspoon, that is) sent me an e-mail informing me they had deleted the entire review.  The e-mail read, in part:

 "Incidents like this are impossible for a restaurant to defend (or disprove) and can profoundly affect their reputation, so we don't include them."

Really?  I mean, really?  Every single negative thing ever posted in any review is impossible for a restaurant to defend or disprove and can profoundly affect their reputation!  EVERY SINGLE THING!  A host of ignorant reviewers can spew out a litany of mean spirited and spiteful comments full of misinformation and maliciousness but an objective and intelligently written review describing a major health code violation is not allowed to be heard on that forum.

I think the solution is for me to go back and video the "handwash-gate" incident and include it on this blog then send it to urbanspoon and see if proof will make a difference.

Sorry.  I apologize.  I am all fired up right now.  I have an innate distrust of and do rebel against authority of all types, so when I see what I perceive as abuse by those with "power" it frustrates me.

JD Crepe Company

Visited:  November 12, 2011

I recently posted a review on Urbanspoon regarding my visit to JD Crepe Company.  I feel somewhat guilty about posting such a negative review because there are possible repercussions for the business owner.  However, I watched in mute fascination/horror at what unfolded before me that day.  See the review for details about gloves and handwashing.  Here is the quote from the 2009 FDA Food Code used by the State of Indiana:

Preventing Contamination by Employees

3-301.11 Preventing Contamination from Hands.


(A) Food employees shall wash their hands as specified under § 2-301.12.


(B) Except when washing fruits and vegetables as specified under § 3-302.15 or as specified in ¶ (D) of this section, food employees may not contact exposed, ready-to-eat food with their bare hands and shall use suitable utensils such as deli tissue, spatulas, tongs, single-use gloves, or dispensing equipment. P

So I am not making this up.  This is not merely my opinion.  This is the State talking here.

Beyond that, let's discuss the food.  I ordered a cuban panini.  Perhaps I should have known better than to order a sandwich at a crepe place, but it was not tasty at all.  To be fair, my fellow diner ordered a different panini and pronounced it quite delightful.  Nevertheless, my sandwich cost $6.50 just by itself--well, it did come with two slices of pickle.

I just don't know.  Perhaps I was put off by the whole bare hand touching of the food thing after handling money, etc. but I did not enjoy my experience in the least. 



Value: 5 out of 10
Cleanliness: 1 out of 10 (Bare Hand to Food Contact, not good)
Ambiance: 6 out of 10 (Would be fun to watch if not for the above)
Food Taste:  5 out of 10 (But that may just be my selection during this visit)

Food for Thought

Don't you think we have become too competitive? 

Think about it for a moment:  we have taken what should be one of the most pleasurable experiences granted us by our Creator--the preparation and eating of food--and turned it into a series of competitions.  No longer is cooking and dining simply a time of refueling and togetherness with friends and family.  It is now a high stress endevour, filled with anxiety and angst.  We have cooking competitions, eating contests, chef vs. chef, restaurant vs. restaurant, even city vs. city!

The internet has turned diners into would-be food critics and the readers of their missives into unwitting disciples of ignorant drivel; thus spawning and perpetuating the popularity of Urbanspoon and Yelp, among other review sites.  Everyone clamours to have their opinions heard--myself included--which I fully realize and acknowledge.  The difference lies in this, I think:  most believe their opinion is the lone accurate and correct voice of reason out there while I think my words are simply an opinion, nothing more.

Competition has changed our culture in other nefarious ways as well.  I remember as a kid how much fun we had playing baseball, catching frogs down at the pond, creating pioneer era forts out of old appliance boxes, or just running around outside getting dirty and sweaty.  These days, the bulk of the exposure of too many children to the great outdoors is organized soccer, little league, or other sports.  We now have timed and organized "play dates" in sanitized and policed play areas.  Children must attend the proper pre-school to give them a leg up in elementary school, to give them a head start in high school, which will help them become accepted into a premier university, all to set them up in a career where their success is measured by the size of a paycheck.  Could we be sending the message to our children that even "playtime" is a competition?  Childhood is a fragile time.  If we imprint on the young ones that life is a contest rather than a time to savor the wealth and variety of creation, do we not inflict on them a disservice?  Not everyone can win the Superbowl or the World Series, but everyone can sure enjoy the simple pleasures of friends, of a good meal (both preparing and eating), of family time.  Eh?

While I know this will peg me as a "things were better in the old days" kinda person, I am not that naive.  For the most part, I like what technology has wrought, what modern medicine can do, what choices we have available today. 

But a part of me longs for the days when I could prepare and eat a meal without having to rate it.  How 'bout you?

Pretentious

I wrote in an earlier entry how I dislike pretentiousness; whether in food, in conversation, in consumerism, and even in writing.  People generally love to make themselves look better than perhaps they really are or at the very least, to portray themselves in as favorable a light as possible.  I guess I can't really blame folks for this, for who doesn't want to look good?  Of course, when pretension emerges in written form, the results run the gamut from the merely laughable to the downright foolish.

So what does any of this have to do with the focus of this blog?  Truthfully... not much.  But I was reading a review on Urbanspoon (I won't mention the author, you'll have to find it yourself... a Valpo restaurant review: hint, hint) and I came across the following nugget.  It is sooo cheesy--no pun intended--that I felt compelled to comment.  Anyway, here it is and you can judge for yourselves:

"The two cheeses (blue - not bleu - crumbled on top) did not mesh well and also had no subtlety, brawling in my mouth for dominance rather than working together like a melody."

This is bad on so many levels, I don't even know where to start.  What initially struck me was how utterly pretentious this little gem appeared and how one presumes the author smugly posted it believing himself to be a budding Hemingway or Fitzgerald.  I love the phrase "brawling in my mouth..."  Wow!  One can only imagine opposing wedges of cheese--perhaps a Mr. Gorgonzola and a Mr. Stilton--with sleeves rolled to expose bulging biceps, slugging it out on a damp, taste bud infested tableau surrounded by the ever present teeth silently cheering their favorites on to victory.

The writing issues aside, who here has had a "subtle" blue/bleu cheese anyway?  These cheeses are many things, but subtle just ain't one of them!  And by the way; in the United States, "blue" is the accepted form of spelling for this type of fromage anyway.

Okay, okay, calm down!  Find your center.  There... blood pressure returning to normal.

Sorry about that.  I momentarily lost control due to the near overwhelming combination of bad writing, misinformation, questionable taste, and pretentious thinking. 

Big Daddys Genuine BBQ

Visited: October 11, 2011

I confess:  I have been to Big Daddys more than a few times... okay, maybe alot since they opened.  Having been born in the south and lived there for a time, not to mention frequent trips to southern climes on a regular basis, I dine at many, many BBQ joints.  Some are mere holes in the wall that make you wonder if they have ever even heard of the concept of a health inspector and conversely, some grand BBQ palaces complete with white tablecloths and attentive servers.  I have personally seen the pros and big BBQ names in action (they too put their pants on one leg at a time).  From Texas to Tennessee to Florida, and many points in between, I have eaten my fair share of BBQ. 

There is one thing I have observed during my travels and as I have matured.  BBQ--like chili--inspires yet polarizes those who consume it.  It is improbable that we will ever agree on the definition of good BBQ or the perfect BBQ restaurant, or even the proper pit in which to smoke it.  It is unlikely we will ever convince the opposing camp of the error of their ways and bring them out of the darkness.  But that's okay!  It makes for a more interesting journey.  I like what the restaurant "Smoque" has put in their website under their "BBQ Manifesto":

"...BBQ is a perennial subject of debate and controversy. People argue ingredients and techniques, make claims about the superiority of regional styles, and even dispute the meaning of BBQ itself. Strong opinions about BBQ are firmly rooted in the passion of its devotees..."

Realizing all that, Big Daddys is epitomizing what southern BBQ is all about:  quality meats hickory smoked over low heat until tender served with creative side dishes, everything prepared from scratch.  The food here accurately reflects what you will find throughout the top notch southern BBQ spots and let me tell you, it is really good stuff!  The portions are huge and the taste is incredible.  I love how I can actually taste the meat, smoke, and spices without it being drowned in sauce.  After pretty much working my way through the entire menu, some items really stand out for me:  the St. Louis dry rubbed ribs, the cowboy beans, and the baked corn.  I was there on the recently introduced all you can eat rib night last Tuesday and found the ribs to be smokey, meaty, moist and tender.  WOW!  The owners are constantly handing out samples to encourage you to try new things and everyone is very friendly.  The smoked chicken is out of this world and I have taken leftovers home and made an awesome chicken salad with it!



Nice Rack
 (of St. Louis Ribs, mmm)



Like every other restaurant in the world, they could tweak a couple of things:  I would prefer a couple of more choices of sauces, I am not wild about plastic cutlery and the paper served under the food seems to disintegrate during the course of a meal.  Early on I think they had trouble with some consistency like any new place but I think the kinks have been worked out for the most part.  The owner talked about installing a fire pit outside at one time, which would be cool, but as of last Tuesday it was still AWOL.  And what good BBQ place doesn't serve a cobbler or a pecan pie or something?  Not that I would have any room to eat it, I guess.

Summary:  For those who really know and appreciate the true southern BBQ experience, Big Daddys has nailed it.  For the rest of you who just don't get it, there's always that pulled pork slider down at White Castle...

Service:         8 out of 10  They take care of you
Cleanliness:   7 out of 10  Everything seems clean.
Food Taste:    9 out of 10  The real deal, would be perfect with some greens...
Value:            9 out of 10  Almost too much food
Ambiance:      7 out of 10  But hey, this is a BBQ joint after all!

Big Daddy's Genuine Barbecue
3304 Calumet Ave
Valparaiso, IN  46383

219-242-8163

Joy of Kneading

I love bread.  Don't you? 

Put aside--if you can--even if just for a moment, the high carb discussion and think about a loaf of crusty bread pulled from the oven just begging to be sliced then slathered in butter and jam.  The first slice falls away to the cutting board, a bit of steam rises from the pillowy interior (I can never wait until it cools), the enticing aroma draws family members from their various electronic gadgetry... mmm.  We gather around the cutting board clamoring for a slice, ipods and cell phones momentarily forgotten, and we laugh and talk.

As the baker, I get the heel.  An ethereal combination of crustiness and steamy tenderness, this first slice I claim as my own with the excuse that it must be "tested" to ensure its suitability for consumption by the common folk.  I can't believe they still buy into that malarkey after all these years.  Funny how the heel remains untouched in a store bought loaf of white bread though.

When I was much younger my wife's grandmother was known for her delicate crescent rolls, always anticipated at any family gathering.  Served piping hot at Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, this was a special treat to be savored and fondly remembered because they wouldn't make an appearance again for months--an eternity in the eyes of the youngsters seated at the table with their cheeks packed with that buttery goodness.  The recipe was never fully revealed and went with her to the grave.

Scouring cookbook after cookbook, I came across a recipe for crescent rolls which included two of the ingredients I knew were included in the original:  mashed potatoes and potato water.  I was sure I was on the right track, but further reading unveiled a new technique that surprised me.  This dough rose overnight in the refrigerator!  Who had ever heard of that?

Now I have become the family crescent roll maker.  The young ones fawn over and flatter me at family gatherings in an attempt to wheedle an early sample out of the hoard I come bearing.  I let them know the rolls are numbered and must be accounted for at dinner time.  Then I set the sack down on the counter and leave the kitchen full well knowing the rolls will be pilfered by young and old alike.  I have taken to baking about three times the amount needed to allow for pre and post dinner snacking.

But it is with a touch of regret I never fully learned the old recipe.  Or maybe it was her technique, I just don't know.  Her rolls always seemed more tender, more evenly browned, more uniform in shape.  They were the essence of baking:  simple ingredients and technique combined with care to form a heavenly treat.  They were perfect.

The Home Fires Are A-Burnin'

Just so you know, the Hoosier Epicure does not visit restaurants every day of the week.  There are days when cooking at home are far more gratifying and fulfilling than any other dining option.  For those who cook, you will certainly know what I mean--at least for those who enjoy cooking.

There's something magical about cooking:  the transforming power of yeast working on a few cups of flour and a bit of water, the tantalizing crusty browned edges of cheesy potato casserole, the sizzle of bacon when it hits a hot cast iron skillet, the anticipation of a warm cookie laden with chunks of chocolate and chopped walnuts cooling on the rack, the succulent and savory first slice of a roast beef always bringing back memories of a favorite meal from my childhood.

I do not cook at home as often as in the past.  Kids are gone for the most part, career is consuming what little time remains, and--if truth be told--the energy level just ain't what it used to be .  But when guests are on the docket, I still love to pull out all the stops.  Not that I intend to impress our visitors with highbrow, haute cuisine... not by any means.  I dislike pretentiousness:  food, like so many other aspects of life is better when it is authentic.  Genuine.  What I mean by that is that we want our guests to know they are important to us so we take the time and effort to prepare food that reflects who we are and do it with care and attention to detail.  

It doesn't matter whether it is a simple burger cooked over charcoal or a delicate baked flan oozing with caramel sauce.  If it is worth buying the ingredients and putting in the effort, it's worth doing it right.  And while I'm on this soapbox, I might as well add that this is what separates average restaurants from superior ones:  they take the time and effort to do it right.

And let me add, there are certain restaurants around town that do this very thing.  I guess it is pride of ownership on the part of the restaurateur--and to him or her it is more than making a living--perhaps much more in some cases.  It is an unveiling of their creativity, a laying it on the line for the public to experience and enjoy.

So here is one of my favorite fall spreads when we have guests:  a piping hot spinach/artichoke dip with pita bread or tortilla chips, citrus glazed shrimp grilled over charcoal, baby back ribs smoked until they are almost too tender to transfer from the rack to the platter, twice baked potatoes loaded with herbs and cheeses, carrots and parsnips tossed in olive oil and coarse sea salt then roasted until they begin to caramelize around the edges, fresh crescent rolls baked from scratch hot from the oven and slathered in butter or jam, and maybe a chocolate bread pudding cooked in a bain-maire then topped with fresh whipped cream.

Hungry?  So am I.