Pretentious

I wrote in an earlier entry how I dislike pretentiousness; whether in food, in conversation, in consumerism, and even in writing.  People generally love to make themselves look better than perhaps they really are or at the very least, to portray themselves in as favorable a light as possible.  I guess I can't really blame folks for this, for who doesn't want to look good?  Of course, when pretension emerges in written form, the results run the gamut from the merely laughable to the downright foolish.

So what does any of this have to do with the focus of this blog?  Truthfully... not much.  But I was reading a review on Urbanspoon (I won't mention the author, you'll have to find it yourself... a Valpo restaurant review: hint, hint) and I came across the following nugget.  It is sooo cheesy--no pun intended--that I felt compelled to comment.  Anyway, here it is and you can judge for yourselves:

"The two cheeses (blue - not bleu - crumbled on top) did not mesh well and also had no subtlety, brawling in my mouth for dominance rather than working together like a melody."

This is bad on so many levels, I don't even know where to start.  What initially struck me was how utterly pretentious this little gem appeared and how one presumes the author smugly posted it believing himself to be a budding Hemingway or Fitzgerald.  I love the phrase "brawling in my mouth..."  Wow!  One can only imagine opposing wedges of cheese--perhaps a Mr. Gorgonzola and a Mr. Stilton--with sleeves rolled to expose bulging biceps, slugging it out on a damp, taste bud infested tableau surrounded by the ever present teeth silently cheering their favorites on to victory.

The writing issues aside, who here has had a "subtle" blue/bleu cheese anyway?  These cheeses are many things, but subtle just ain't one of them!  And by the way; in the United States, "blue" is the accepted form of spelling for this type of fromage anyway.

Okay, okay, calm down!  Find your center.  There... blood pressure returning to normal.

Sorry about that.  I momentarily lost control due to the near overwhelming combination of bad writing, misinformation, questionable taste, and pretentious thinking. 

Big Daddys Genuine BBQ

Visited: October 11, 2011

I confess:  I have been to Big Daddys more than a few times... okay, maybe alot since they opened.  Having been born in the south and lived there for a time, not to mention frequent trips to southern climes on a regular basis, I dine at many, many BBQ joints.  Some are mere holes in the wall that make you wonder if they have ever even heard of the concept of a health inspector and conversely, some grand BBQ palaces complete with white tablecloths and attentive servers.  I have personally seen the pros and big BBQ names in action (they too put their pants on one leg at a time).  From Texas to Tennessee to Florida, and many points in between, I have eaten my fair share of BBQ. 

There is one thing I have observed during my travels and as I have matured.  BBQ--like chili--inspires yet polarizes those who consume it.  It is improbable that we will ever agree on the definition of good BBQ or the perfect BBQ restaurant, or even the proper pit in which to smoke it.  It is unlikely we will ever convince the opposing camp of the error of their ways and bring them out of the darkness.  But that's okay!  It makes for a more interesting journey.  I like what the restaurant "Smoque" has put in their website under their "BBQ Manifesto":

"...BBQ is a perennial subject of debate and controversy. People argue ingredients and techniques, make claims about the superiority of regional styles, and even dispute the meaning of BBQ itself. Strong opinions about BBQ are firmly rooted in the passion of its devotees..."

Realizing all that, Big Daddys is epitomizing what southern BBQ is all about:  quality meats hickory smoked over low heat until tender served with creative side dishes, everything prepared from scratch.  The food here accurately reflects what you will find throughout the top notch southern BBQ spots and let me tell you, it is really good stuff!  The portions are huge and the taste is incredible.  I love how I can actually taste the meat, smoke, and spices without it being drowned in sauce.  After pretty much working my way through the entire menu, some items really stand out for me:  the St. Louis dry rubbed ribs, the cowboy beans, and the baked corn.  I was there on the recently introduced all you can eat rib night last Tuesday and found the ribs to be smokey, meaty, moist and tender.  WOW!  The owners are constantly handing out samples to encourage you to try new things and everyone is very friendly.  The smoked chicken is out of this world and I have taken leftovers home and made an awesome chicken salad with it!



Nice Rack
 (of St. Louis Ribs, mmm)



Like every other restaurant in the world, they could tweak a couple of things:  I would prefer a couple of more choices of sauces, I am not wild about plastic cutlery and the paper served under the food seems to disintegrate during the course of a meal.  Early on I think they had trouble with some consistency like any new place but I think the kinks have been worked out for the most part.  The owner talked about installing a fire pit outside at one time, which would be cool, but as of last Tuesday it was still AWOL.  And what good BBQ place doesn't serve a cobbler or a pecan pie or something?  Not that I would have any room to eat it, I guess.

Summary:  For those who really know and appreciate the true southern BBQ experience, Big Daddys has nailed it.  For the rest of you who just don't get it, there's always that pulled pork slider down at White Castle...

Service:         8 out of 10  They take care of you
Cleanliness:   7 out of 10  Everything seems clean.
Food Taste:    9 out of 10  The real deal, would be perfect with some greens...
Value:            9 out of 10  Almost too much food
Ambiance:      7 out of 10  But hey, this is a BBQ joint after all!

Big Daddy's Genuine Barbecue
3304 Calumet Ave
Valparaiso, IN  46383

219-242-8163

Joy of Kneading

I love bread.  Don't you? 

Put aside--if you can--even if just for a moment, the high carb discussion and think about a loaf of crusty bread pulled from the oven just begging to be sliced then slathered in butter and jam.  The first slice falls away to the cutting board, a bit of steam rises from the pillowy interior (I can never wait until it cools), the enticing aroma draws family members from their various electronic gadgetry... mmm.  We gather around the cutting board clamoring for a slice, ipods and cell phones momentarily forgotten, and we laugh and talk.

As the baker, I get the heel.  An ethereal combination of crustiness and steamy tenderness, this first slice I claim as my own with the excuse that it must be "tested" to ensure its suitability for consumption by the common folk.  I can't believe they still buy into that malarkey after all these years.  Funny how the heel remains untouched in a store bought loaf of white bread though.

When I was much younger my wife's grandmother was known for her delicate crescent rolls, always anticipated at any family gathering.  Served piping hot at Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, this was a special treat to be savored and fondly remembered because they wouldn't make an appearance again for months--an eternity in the eyes of the youngsters seated at the table with their cheeks packed with that buttery goodness.  The recipe was never fully revealed and went with her to the grave.

Scouring cookbook after cookbook, I came across a recipe for crescent rolls which included two of the ingredients I knew were included in the original:  mashed potatoes and potato water.  I was sure I was on the right track, but further reading unveiled a new technique that surprised me.  This dough rose overnight in the refrigerator!  Who had ever heard of that?

Now I have become the family crescent roll maker.  The young ones fawn over and flatter me at family gatherings in an attempt to wheedle an early sample out of the hoard I come bearing.  I let them know the rolls are numbered and must be accounted for at dinner time.  Then I set the sack down on the counter and leave the kitchen full well knowing the rolls will be pilfered by young and old alike.  I have taken to baking about three times the amount needed to allow for pre and post dinner snacking.

But it is with a touch of regret I never fully learned the old recipe.  Or maybe it was her technique, I just don't know.  Her rolls always seemed more tender, more evenly browned, more uniform in shape.  They were the essence of baking:  simple ingredients and technique combined with care to form a heavenly treat.  They were perfect.

The Home Fires Are A-Burnin'

Just so you know, the Hoosier Epicure does not visit restaurants every day of the week.  There are days when cooking at home are far more gratifying and fulfilling than any other dining option.  For those who cook, you will certainly know what I mean--at least for those who enjoy cooking.

There's something magical about cooking:  the transforming power of yeast working on a few cups of flour and a bit of water, the tantalizing crusty browned edges of cheesy potato casserole, the sizzle of bacon when it hits a hot cast iron skillet, the anticipation of a warm cookie laden with chunks of chocolate and chopped walnuts cooling on the rack, the succulent and savory first slice of a roast beef always bringing back memories of a favorite meal from my childhood.

I do not cook at home as often as in the past.  Kids are gone for the most part, career is consuming what little time remains, and--if truth be told--the energy level just ain't what it used to be .  But when guests are on the docket, I still love to pull out all the stops.  Not that I intend to impress our visitors with highbrow, haute cuisine... not by any means.  I dislike pretentiousness:  food, like so many other aspects of life is better when it is authentic.  Genuine.  What I mean by that is that we want our guests to know they are important to us so we take the time and effort to prepare food that reflects who we are and do it with care and attention to detail.  

It doesn't matter whether it is a simple burger cooked over charcoal or a delicate baked flan oozing with caramel sauce.  If it is worth buying the ingredients and putting in the effort, it's worth doing it right.  And while I'm on this soapbox, I might as well add that this is what separates average restaurants from superior ones:  they take the time and effort to do it right.

And let me add, there are certain restaurants around town that do this very thing.  I guess it is pride of ownership on the part of the restaurateur--and to him or her it is more than making a living--perhaps much more in some cases.  It is an unveiling of their creativity, a laying it on the line for the public to experience and enjoy.

So here is one of my favorite fall spreads when we have guests:  a piping hot spinach/artichoke dip with pita bread or tortilla chips, citrus glazed shrimp grilled over charcoal, baby back ribs smoked until they are almost too tender to transfer from the rack to the platter, twice baked potatoes loaded with herbs and cheeses, carrots and parsnips tossed in olive oil and coarse sea salt then roasted until they begin to caramelize around the edges, fresh crescent rolls baked from scratch hot from the oven and slathered in butter or jam, and maybe a chocolate bread pudding cooked in a bain-maire then topped with fresh whipped cream.

Hungry?  So am I.

Viking Chili Bowl

Visited: Too Many Times to Count

The Chili Bowl is within a two minute drive from my office so I find myself frequenting this place more times than I care to admit.  It appears to be a hangout for old codgers (...and just what is a codger, you may ask?  Obviously, one who codges...duh!) so my patronage thus gives me reason to worry that I myself am in danger of gaining membership into the codger fraternity. (The initiation ritual is troubling, I hear.  All that chugging of prune juice...)

First of all, don't go to the Chili Bowl expecting gourmet food... you won't get it.  Don't go to the Chili Bowl expecting sophisticated service... you won't get that either.

However, if you want huge volumes of food for a relatively low cost served by those who eventually know what you're going to order long before you even do because they have been working there since the dawn of time, then you'll enjoy your experience at the Chili Bowl.  I seem to gravitate toward the bacon/turkey on a croissant sandwich, 'cause after all, anything is good with bacon on it.  You can get it with soup and french fries to boot, in reality way too much food for lunch.  In general, the soups are quite tasty and filling.  You'll find an expansive menu, causing one to ponder the size of the freezer required to maintain an inventory large enough to service such a vast array of choices.

Breakfast:  Ahh, here is where they shine.  I will go out on a limb and say that the Viking Chili Bowl has the very best pancakes in town... maybe in the whole world.  They have great hash browns, they actually follow your orders regarding how you want your eggs cooked, and they have pretty good coffee.

It seems certain restaurants in Valparaiso have a penchant for wall murals and the Chili Bowl is no exception.  Some are good, executed with taste and skill.  These are not.  Sorry to the artist, but tacky, tacky, tacky.  The stains in the ceiling tiles need to be repaired as well.  Hey, I'm just telling it like it is.

Would I go back?  Yeah, see you there tomorrow.

Value:           9 out of 10   Lots of food, not lots of cash
Food:           7 out of 10   But not fancy-shmancy
Ambiance:    5 out of 10    Lose the murals, then we'll talk
Service:        9 out of 10    Friendly & they keep the coffee a-comin'
Cleanliness:   6 out of 10   Could use a bit more diligence

Viking Chili Bowl
105 U. S. Highway 30
Valparaiso, IN
219-462-0800

Wagner's Ribs

Visited:  Many Times

I used to really like Wagner's, back in the day.  I liked them when they were out on Route 30 and I still liked them when they moved into Valpo.  But after visiting the Holy Land of BBQ (Memphis, for those of you not in the know) and Smoque in Chicago, and Big Daddy's BBQ in Valpo, and Woody's in Iowa, and countless other hole-in-the-wall places througout the deep south, I no longer care for Wagner's.

For BBQ, that is.

I still think they offer up a pretty decent burger and a variety other sandwiches, but I have since become educated on what true BBQ is all about.  I think I have had my best BBQ experience at Corky's in Memphis, Tennessee...  mmmm!  Good stuff, let me tell you.  The difference is smoke and plenty of it.  You either smoke your meat to get it tender and tasty, or you devise some other method.  And any other method would not be true BBQ.  If you haven't tried true, authentic BBQ, you owe it to yourself to give it a shot.

Anyway, while Wagner's still has some items of interest for me on the menu, their BBQ offerings lack appeal.  The "pulled pork" sandwich with waffle fries is a typical Wagner's lunch special, but it is not typical of what you would find in the south.  There--and depending on the region--you would find meat not swimming in sauce.  The smoked meat would stand on its own and not gain its flavor from the sauce.  Actually, in certain parts of the Carolinas, you would find a helping of cole slaw piled onto your sandwich.

Summary:  Go to Wagner's for anything and expect a decent meal, but don't go if you expect authentic, southern style BBQ. 

Value:            6 out of 10

Food:            5 out of 10

Cleanliness:    7 out of 10

Ambiance:      8 out of 10

Service:          7 out of 10

Wagner's Ribs

2310 LaPorte Avenue

Valparaiso, IN

219-465-9247

Pesto's Redux

Visited: Sunday, September18, 2011

A group of us visited Pesto's last Sunday to gorge ourselves on the buffet... I really gotta quit doing that, gorging that is.  Regardless, here is the lowdown:  the breadsticks are fantastic--warm and buttery, the pizza is pretty good too, however it is hit and miss on the pasta choices.  A couple of the dishes were really good and a couple of them were marginal.

But that's okay!  It is unrealistic to ask any random diner to give a thumbs up to each and every dish set before him or her, right?  Right.

I like Pesto's... really like it.  See my earlier posting for proof.  I have dined at Pesto's since before they moved to their current location.  They are not perfect, what restaurant is?  Mario Batali doesn't have anything to worry about, I am sure.  Food, cleanliness, ambiance, etc. were all on par with all my previous dining experiences. 

Okay:  now the other shoe drops.  Since I am not used to dining with larger parties, I was caught unawares by the automatic addition to our bill of an 18% gratuity.  Our server, a young woman named M___, did not mention it and since we all had the buffet, we were not reminded of it on the menu.  Nevertheless, when the bill was paid, we dutifully added our gratuity and it was accepted without so much as a comment about the now $42 or so dollar tip she had received for her sterling efforts in keeping our beverage glasses full.  Ka-ching.

Yeah, I know it was our fault for not paying closer attention, which we should have done.  But it was pretty obvious we had made a mistake and neither the server or the management made a comment.  It was just money in her pocket, I guess.  This shows a fundamental lack of integrity on the part of the server and a lack of training on the part of management.  They should train the server to clearly identify that gratuity is added to large parties... unless, of course, they simply do not care.

I despise the practice of automatic gratuities.  It forces the diner into an awkward situation if service is sub par, and ultimately insulting to the intelligence and honesty of the average diner.  While I know servers in general will probably disagree with this sentiment, the fact is, an auto grat is a server's license for mediocrity.

Lesson learned.

Urbanspoon

Indiana Epicure has recently joined Urbanspoon, a restaurant review site, under the name Hoosier Epicure.  I was forced to take that name only because I could not get the Indiana Epicure name to take.  It is obvious I enjoy food... not computers!

The premise behind Urbanspoon is seemingly simple: give diners a forum to rate and review restaurants. 

I like that notion. 

What I do not like are the self-proclaimed experts spewing venom in a most hateful manner about subjects of which it is obvious they know little.  I am somewhat discouraged by what I read on Urbanspoon:  mean spirited rantings, some with questionable motives and agendas.  Case in point: there is one fellow from Valparaiso who trashes certain restaurants with particular zeal based on dubious qualifications to do so.  It turns out, upon doing a little investigative sleuthing (mainly consisting of reading his profile), this conflict-of-interest reviewer has a side venture which benefits when his "targets" suffer.  Or how about the Valparaiso reviewer who trashes a popular breakfast destination because he assumes he knows who is "involved" with it.  (He is wrong, by the way.)

There is no integrity in a review from someone like this.

Thankfully, there are those reviews written which remain free of spite and malicious agendas.  Reviews which offer insight--both positive and negative--and are genuinely helpful.  Reviews which offer constructive criticism with the goal of educating, not destroying the livelihood of the restaurateur.  Discerning readers of Urbanspoon should take the time to learn the reviewers and the type of reviews they write, filtering out those lacking and following those of value.

So there it is:  Urbanspoon reviews should be taken with a grain of salt... preferably coarse sea salt.

Silver Spoon - Valparaiso, In

Visited September 21, 2011 @ 7:45 am

This was my first visit to Silver Spoon so I had no idea of what to expect.  Joining a friend for breakfast, we were greeted by a clean, contemporary setting which immediately told me something about what was in store.  The decor is quirky yet tasteful and pleasing to the eye, all designed to instill comfort yet maintain a sense of edginess.  If the owner did the interior design and layout on his or her own, my hat is off to them--it bears the mark of professionalism throughout.  It so happens I did not make any inquiries regarding ownership or the story behind the place.


Our server was very attentive without being overbearing, just right in my opinion.  Of course, at the time, we were the only patrons so he had little else to do.  (We were soon joined by other diners)


We ordered coffee which was not piping hot, but warm enough to be okay.  After examining the menu, I decided on a simple breakfast of buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup and a side of maple chicken sausage.  Through the open kitchen, I could see the staff busy with our order.  Everything seemed well orchestrated and efficient.


With our coffee cups kept filled, our food was delivered quickly.  The pancakes were the thinner variety and had a unique taste.  Quite tasty without leaving me feeling stuffed to the gills.  The chicken sausage wasn't quite what I had expected and I would opt for something else upon my next visit.


My friend had a skillet meal and I unfortunately do not recall the name, but it looked great and he really enjoyed it.  I do not know what his meal cost so I have failed in my reporting duties on that count.  However, I had some stressful issues I was discussing throughout breakfast and didn't pay that much attention... so shoot me already!


Okay:  three pancakes, three sausage links, and coffee.  How much, you may ask?  $12.50 plus tax.  Is that too much?  In Chicago, perhaps not.  In Valparaiso, well...


Summary--I will definitely be back.  It is obvious the staff cares about what goes on and the quality of the food served (initial coffee temperature notwithstanding) and I can appreciate that.  I would like to try the lunch menu offerings and I certainly intend to.

Ambiance:         10 out of 10 - a very pleasant environment
Service:               9 out of 10 - smooth and professional
Food Taste:         6 out of 10 - but this was due to my choice, I think
Value:                  6 out of 10 - the verdict is still out on this
Cleanliness:      10 out of 10 - seemingly flawless from what I saw

Silver Spoon
15 East Lincolnway
Valparaiso, IN
Phone:  219-242-8035

El Charro - Valparaiso, IN

Visited: Saturday - March 13, 2010 8:15 pm


We had a hunger for some Mexican food this evening and decided to hit El Charro.  My Spanish speaking friends tell me "El Charro" means something like a cowboy, but one who dresses in that traditional and elaborate garb often associated with old Mexico.  Located in the old Burger King building on Lincolnway in Valparaiso, El Charro serves up hearty portions of Americanized Mexican food by a mostly Mexican staff.  Once inside and seated, most people would have a difficult time realizing the building once housed a Burger King since only the outside appearance is telltale. 

We were dining relatively late in the evening so I decided to forgo my usual favorite dish and try a smaller combination platter, one with the descriptive and informative name of "Combination #1."  After a huge basket of warm tortilla chips and smooth salsa, then trying to conduct a conversation over the wild antics of the children at the table next to us, our food arrived promptly and piping hot.  On each table are bottles of hot sauce to anoint your food as you see fit and in accordance with your ability to tolerate your tongue quickly turning into a cinder if you're not careful.  My platter contained a beef taco, a beef enchilada, and a tostada complete with a healthy dose of guacamole perched in the midst.  This combo contained no beans or frijoles which was fine--I was trying to have a smaller meal--but nevertheless, there was enough food to leave me completely sated without them. 

Although I don't think Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill fame has anything to worry about, El Charro does provide a satisfying and tasty Tex-Mex meal without breaking the bank.  I say "Tex-Mex" because some of my Mexican friends tell me the food is not exactly like you would find in Mexico.  Like so many ethnic foods, we have Americanized them and to a degree, homogenized them to suit our palates.  Too bad for us, in my opinion. 

Service is friendly and muy rapido... don't worry, that's pretty much the extent of my Spanish.  The decor includes a large mural of downtown Valparaiso, produced by an artist of marginal talent, but dovetailing with the balance of the interior.  I would classify the interior design to be from the Late Mexican Tacky Period, and when combined with their penchant for having all the televisions constantly tuned to soccer or Telemundo, one can walk away believing they have been exposed to authentic Mexican culture.  Or not.

Those issues aside, the place is relatively clean and kept up and they seem to do a brisk business.  I don't hesitate in recommending El Charro for some decent Tex-Mex grub at all.  Dress is casual.

1 star = Montezuma's Revenge Inducing ------ 10 stars = Fiesta Paradise

Ambiance - 5 stars
Food Quality - 7 stars
Service - 7 stars
Cleanliness - 7 stars
Value - 8 stars

El Charro
807 Lincolnway
Valparaiso, IN  46383
219-548-3703

Pestos - Valparaiso, IN

Visited:  Friday - March 12, 2010 5:00 pm

     Pestos: a perennial favorite in Valpo for its take on Italian food and a relatively frequent stop for my family when we crave some pasta or other Italian fare.  Our arrival beat the dinner rush, but just barely.  By the time we completed our salad course a line had formed in the lobby and I knew from experience it would only lengthen.  Pestos has undergone a very recent exterior face lift due to the transformation of the former County Seat Shopping Center into its current incarnation and the new look contributes positively to the ambiance. 

     Each meal at Pestos begins with a loaf of rustic bread, piping hot from the oven--thick crusted with a tender crumb, just right for dipping in the flavored olive oil provided or slathered with butter.  Oh, to be able to bake bread like that at home...  A generous Caesar salad followed but I did not detect even a hint of anchovies, an integral component of the authentic version.  I opted for one of my favorite dishes--one I had avoided for some time so as not to become jaded--their version of Vodka Chicken.  The dish consists of two moist chicken breasts, flattened and sauteed, served over a nest of angel hair pasta and smothered in a white vodka cream sauce.  Most recipes for vodka cream sauce end up reddish in color due to the addition of tomato sauce or paste.  Not this version.  It doesn't seem to have even a bit of tomato in it and that's fine by me.  The sauce, while very rich, coats the pasta and each bite of chicken in a creamy, garlicky goodness that is very satisfying.  The portion size was generous and when combined with the salad and bread, I had no room whatsoever to consider the delectable looking desserts that flowed on by to other tables.

Our server was friendly without being overly so and paid attention to our needs without us having to flag her down like a taxi in the Loop.  The dining area and restrooms are clean, as well as the exterior of the building, a point of major concern for this particular diner.  I can't tolerate a filthy restaurant!  The cost of our meal was fair but I do believe some of the seafood dishes are a bit overpriced for this market considering the net amount of product on the plate.  Dress ranged anywhere from jeans to shirt and ties.  I did not see a single suit but one would certainly not be out of place.

Summary:  A good value for a nice night out or a casual lunch with quality food and service. 

1 star = pathetically bad -------  10 stars = dining Nirvana

Ambiance - 7 stars
Food Quality - 7 stars
Service - 8 stars
Cleanliness - 9 stars
Value - 7 stars

Pestos Italian Restaurant
3123 Calumet Avenue
Valparaiso, IN
219-462-0993